You'll lose some resolution in the print process, so some additional/excess sharpness can help, especially when you enlarge to, and print at, the proper native printer resolution. Having said that, do try and print a crop. The edge detail can become too sharp looking compared to the rest of the image detail, in which case you can reduce the sharpness amount all the way to zero if needed. My recommendation is to be careful with the sharpness slider when doing extreme magnifications. And here is another related discussion.Īs for the (S-Spline Max) settings, there are only a few in PhotoZoom Pro. Also relevant is the discussion about which PPI should be the goal for enlarged output. I've shared some findings in this thread. Your findings are similar to mine, Photozoom gives the best results for significantly upsampled output. Even with my geriatric 8600 Nvidia chipset the speed increase was pretty dramatic.
#Photozoom pro install
Those who have used PhotoZoom4 will be happy to know version 5 is much faster! First thing after install it does some sort of analysis of your video system to take maximum advantage of whatever GPU resources are present.
#Photozoom pro skin
Persons doing service printing from smartphones and consumer point&shoots would definitely want to consider Alien Skin since it cleans up those kinds of images quite nicely, but I don't think it compares well for already high resolution files. PZ5 is almost as good at jpg artifact suppression, and Resize7 much less so.
#Photozoom pro software
If you are blowing up small jpgs, then the Alien Skin blowup software is probably an especially good choice for its almost complete elimination of jpg artifacts. They save the day for giant prints that will be seen close up. And that would include upsizing with the built in CS5 or CS6 upsizing stuff, and even a properly sharpened print without any special blowup processing.īut when you get up to mural sized prints, I think either PZ5 or Resize7 are worthwhile, if only because they remove grungy looking stair-stepping and pixel clumps. As with sharpening, the screen is a poor indicator of what you will perceive on the print.īottom line for me is that there is not much visible difference if you start with 20mp+ images and make normal sized prints, say up to 24" wide. This is another classic case of not enough examples to make intelligent decisions, but more than enough information to jump to conclusions! Whatever else, as others have pointed out you simply must make test prints to decide what look you prefer.
It's tempting to give PZ5 the prize, but on actual large prints I think Resize7 might give the impression of a little more detail being present. Photozoom5 using SSplineMax_original corrected only for contrast_Resize7 The attached file shows what would be part of an image more than 5 feet tall. I am curious about what others have experienced working with these two products, and what anyone could tell me about the settings in PhotoZoom.īy coincidence I spent a lot of today looking PhotoZoom5 and Resize7, among other things. Convinced it was worthwhile, I purchased to software and tried it on other samples with good results. The PhotoZoom version was much smoother with fewer artifacts. I then magnified both images in Photshop CS5 to where the defects in Perfect Resize were apparent and compared the two.
#Photozoom pro trial
When Perfect Resize did not produce what I wanted, no matter what adjustments I made, I downloaded a trial version of PhotoZoom 5 from BenVista and gave that a try.
I admit this was a bit of a challenge, but the painting was a good candidate for it with broad areas of solid color, and I was starting with a reasonably clean jpeg. I wanted to increase it to 22 inches in width at 300/360 dpi. It was a painting about 1200 x 1800 pixels, eight inches wide, and 72 dpi.
Only lately, I ran into an image that did not upscale with what I considered acceptble results. I have been a happy user of Genuine Fractals, now called Perfect Resize, for more than four years.
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